The Stem is So Back
Using grape stems in wine fermentations is not new. At all. But in the past ten years, experiments have been on the rise to see if this long-ignored part of the whole cluster holds the key to balance in unbalanced harvest seasons (aka higher quality). This week, Romain Bocchio, a highly-trained viticulturist and winemaker based in Bordeaux, published convincing arguments for stem use in fermentations.
We spent time with Romain in St.-Émilion during the baller ‘22 Bordeaux harvest (see picture below). And when he speaks, we listen.
Romain defends Bordeaux as a hub of innovation, adapting to shifting climates and tastes well before other wine regions. For many years, winemakers pursued extreme ripeness because ‘that’s what people wanted’ (critics too), removing stems and underripe elements to create clean, modern wines. But as climate change (i.e. heat) accelerates grape ripening, traditional techniques show limitations. Enter the stem: a tool for balance and complexity.
Romain and his team at Derenoncourt Vignerons Consultants spent six years studying the effects of adding stems, separate from whole-cluster fermentation, during winemaking. Their research revealed that stems can enhance structure, reduce alcohol burn (THANK YOU), and contribute aromatic notes such as lemon peel, dried fruit, spice, and floral accents. They even brought in a professional perfumer to analyze results! Chemically, stems bring compounds that can add subtle sweetness and roundness to wines.
Shawn Zylberberg (in hat) and Romain Bocchio in vineyard at Château Fonplegade
Unlike whole-cluster fermentation, which adds fruity aromas through semi-carbonic maceration (grab a Beaujolais from your local shop and you’ll know), stem integration alone offers a more nuanced, site-reflective complexity. This challenges decades of destemming dogma and high-tech sorting, proving that stems can elevate rather than detract from a wine’s identity.
Romain sums it up. “Sometimes progress means embracing what we once ignored. And sometimes nature gives us exactly what we need – right there, between the grapes.”
Read the full piece here.